Almost every year, I am met with unexpected surprises, and last November was no exception. Together with a friend, I had the privilege of tasting the white wine “A Espedrada” Godello, from the Valdeorras region. It was the 2021 vintage, and the experience is about to reach its one-year anniversary. Another tasting, like so many others I do, but with a significant difference. Among other bottles my friend brought, there were three more of Godello from the Bierzo region. And yet, when I tasted this particular wine, I immediately felt I was in the presence of something serious, a winemaking piece that transcended the ordinary.

Sometimes, it’s true, he brings more consensual wines, easy to read at first glance. However, this Godello amazed me with its complexity. It was a dense wine, aromatically unique, with vibrant freshness and a finish that completely captivated me. It was the perfect balance, with all the elements in harmony, elevating the wine to a remarkable level. And despite its youth, it already conveyed surprising maturity. Without hesitation, I shared the experience with some of my clients, stating right away that this wine deserved a prominent place in my portfolio.
That’s when I truly understood the essence of the Godello grape, whose origin in Valdeorras gives a serious and profound interpretation to the variety. Tasting this wine nearly touches the peak of what one can expect from a white wine. But here, I am already referring to the 2022 vintage, which I acquired a few months ago. The expectations were high, and I can say that I was not disappointed. On the contrary, the 2022 surprised me even more. Both vintages are qualitatively remarkable, different, but equally serious and complex.
The common traits were there: the same floral and honeyed notes, a gentle citrus, and a slight hint of toast reminiscent of coffee, all subtly integrated. The vibrant acidity was perfectly balanced with the creamy, silky body, while the delicate oxidative notes brought joy to the whole experience. The finish was long, with nuances of fresh herbs, nuts, and a light touch of spice.

However, what intrigued me the most wasn’t the immediate pleasure of tasting the wine, but rather the story behind it. I knew nothing about the producer until Daniel revealed its origin to me. This wine is the result of a passionate endeavor, with old vineyards recovered in a carefully chosen location. The producer, a true Vigneron, respects the Terroir in an exemplary way. The vineyards, planted between 1918 and 1929, are located on the steep slopes of Carballeda de Valdeorras, at altitudes ranging from 560 to 700 meters, in the “V”-shaped valley of the Casoio River, a tributary of the Sil.
The winemaking approach is one that I deeply appreciate: manual harvesting, fermentation in 500-liter barrels with native yeasts, and respect for skin contact, which imparts unique complexity to the wine. It is a work of respect for biodiversity and authenticity of the vineyard, something I increasingly value. I taste countless wines throughout the year, but this producer, in particular, stood out.
As for the reds, I tasted two out of the four references, all of extreme quality and uniqueness. However, I want to explore them further, tasting different years and lots to define my preferences better, although the consistent excellence is already clear.

And now, a final word of recommendation—there are only 1,300 bottles of this extraordinary wine, and they won’t last long. I discovered it purely by instinct, which has often brought me great joy, and this wine is yet another testament to that. If you come across it, don’t hesitate, as it truly deserves a place in any discerning wine lover's collection.
Producer: Adega o Cabalin
Text: Miguel Viana Vinhos
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